Close Up and Personal with Mountain Gorillas and Chimpanzees
“WORDS FAIL TO DESCRIBE THE AWE, EXCITEMENT AND RELIEF YOU NFEEL ALL AT ONCE WHEN YOU FINALLY COME UPON THE SILVERBACKS” (MOUNTAIN GORILLAS) IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD.,PPA AND IP
JEFF DAUM AND NEW FRIENDS, ZU/HOASI BUSHMEN IN BOTSWANA.
By Jeff Daum, Ph.D., PPA and IP (Itinerant Photojournalist)
My wife and I are enthusiastic globe-trotters and have had the good fortune to visit over eighty countries. Part of our motivation to travel has always been to see new flora, and wildlife, and to experience cultures that are different from our own, and unfortunately, might not be around in the future for a variety of reasons.
TO AFRICA WITH FRIENDS FOR A “FAMILY” REUNION
On this particular trip, my wife and I, and a few of our closest travel friends, decided it was time to visit the 'family.' Although we'd been to Africa a few times before, we had never had the opportunity to experience our closest relatives. We were off to meet the Mountain Gorillas, primates who share 98% of their DNA with humans, and chimpanzees who share approximately 99%.
BEFORE HEADING TO UGANDA WE SPENT TWO WEEKS EXPLORING BOTSWANA, SOUTH AFRICA, AND ZAMBIA. WE WERE FAR MORE EXCITED TO SEE THESE NAPPING RHINO THAN THEY WERE TO SEE US AT MOSI-OA-TUNYA NATIONAL PARK IN ZAMBIA. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM PHD.,PPA AND IP
BUT FIRST, A LITTLE WILDLIFE
We typically schedule back-to-back tours to maximize what we can explore while in a distant part of the world. This time was no different. We spent the first couple of weeks on a small group tour of Botswana, South Africa, and Zambia. We traveled with our friends, whom we initially met on another African trip to Kenya and Tanzania, years before, and since traveled together to Egypt, The Middle East, India, Hawaii, and parts of the continental United States.
The plants, wildlife, and culture we experienced in Botswana, South Africa, and Zambia, covered the full emotional spectrum from incredible beauty to brute raw power, to abject poverty. Here is a mini-sample:
However, that part of our trip is for another story. The second part of the journey and the focus here took place in Uganda. It was a private tour we arranged with our friends and a professional tour provider.
PLANNING IS PARAMOUNT FOR MOUNTAIN GORILLAS
The planning for the trip took place about a year and a half in advance, to ensure that we could get the required permit to see the gorillas when we wanted to visit (September). Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), the government body responsible for tourism in Uganda, limits the number of permits issued per day. A separate permit is needed for the chimpanzee trek. For each of us, the Gorilla permit cost was US $1350 for two days of access. It is also nonrefundable (unless you are sick or show up sick, in which case they will not let you go on the trek). Importantly, the cost of the permit contributes to the preservation of the Gorillas.
As the saying goes, getting there is half the fun (or, was that saying that it will be twice as convoluted as a straight line from point A to point B?).
A MOUNTAIN GORILLA SAFARI IS LIKE NO OTHER, VISITORS ARE CAREFULLY SCREENED TO PRESERVE THE HEALTH AND WELLBEING OF THE ENDANGERED PRIMATES. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
We started in Entebbe and drove for about an hour to our hotel Lake Victoria Serena Resort & Spa, to overnight, before we continued to Bwindi. To get there, we flew from Entebbe to Bwindi on a 75-minute flight, followed by an hour and one-half drive to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park and our camp, Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp, within the National Park.
Our "tent" was a canvas-covered free-standing unit that included an en suite bathroom and a very comfortable bed.
Not exactly roughing it, but I digress…
Meals and libations were provided in a central lodge.
WHEN WE TRAVEL WE SEEK OUT NEW CULTURES. IN UGANDA, THESE WOMAN FROM THE RIDE 4 WOMEN ORGANIZATION, PERFORMED TRADITIONAL DANCES FOR US. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to about 600 mountain gorillas, also called * silverback gorillas. This represents nearly half of the planet's surviving population. Bwindi also has about 360 species of birds, 200 species of butterfly, and 324 different tree species within its rainforest.
✍︎ Editor’s Note: * The label, “silverback” is generally used to refer to the male gorillas whose back turns grayish-white as they mature.
We spent the first day exploring the area and nearby community. We were very impressed by Ride 4 A Woman that provides support, skill training, a safe haven, and access to micro-loans to start small businesses for women. Similarly, we visited Bwindi Community Hospital founded in 2003 by US missionaries. It was moving to see the heartfelt support the hospital has for the surrounding community and the indigenous pygmy population, teaching hygiene, and providing basic health services. This has resulted in significant improvements in childbirth and wellness. These organizations depend on wildlife tourists for economic support and we were honored to make donations to both.
BABY MOUNTAIN GORILLA SUCKING HIS THUMB. MOUNTAIN GORILLAS AND HUMANS SHARE 98% OF THE SAME DNA. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
GEARING UP FOR A HIKE IN MOUNTAIN GORILLA HABITAT
Soon we were preparing for our first trek to see the Silverback (a.k.a. Mountain) gorillas. We would also discover if the exercising we had been doing (for example, I wore my hiking boots on my elliptical trainer for several months prior) had been sufficient for this experience.
Clothing-wise preparation meant comfortable hiking boots (ones with soles that can provide necessary traction on the slippery rainforest floor), long pants, gaiters, and long sleeve shirt, and rain jacket. Gloves were a necessity (you grab the nearest tree or bush, which typically has thorns, to prevent falling,) and a hat, and backpack with a day's supply of water and food, toilet paper, and DEET insect repellent.
THE RIGHT GEAR IS VITAL FOR A MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREK, AND SO ARE THE RIGHT GUIDES AND COMPANIONS.WE HAVE TRAVELED ALL OVER THE WORLD WITH THESE FRIENDS IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
You start at the guides' meeting place, where you are assigned your local guide, and the Gorilla family (there are about 11) you will be seeking out. Our family was the Rushegura Gorilla family group. The meeting place is where you can hire a porter, too (very beneficial). Before our arrival, the guides have been up in the forest tracking each of the respective families, to get a reasonable idea where they might be that day.
They also go over what you can expect and how to 'behave,' etc. Then you head out for what could be as little as a couple of hour trek to upwards of four hours (one way), to find your Gorilla family.
WAR, POACHING FOR BUSHMEAT AND “MEDICINE,” DEFORESTATION FROM CHARCOAL PRODUCTION AND MORE BROUGHT THEIR NUMBERS DOWN TO 680 IN 2008, TODAY THEY NUMBER OVER 1000 THANKS TO CONSERVATION AND RESPONSIBLE TOURISM: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
Your guide does not follow any real trails, he uses a machete to clear some of the dense brush. You do your best to follow him. When you head out, you are going up the mountain, and conditions may vary between sun, dense shade, rain, mud, slimy logs or branches, and for good measure, a creek or two. A sturdy walking stick is essential to help maintain your footing. The guide is also helpful in getting you through the more difficult passages. Almost certainly, you will slip and fall at least a couple of times. I kept the lens caps on my lenses until we stopped for a break, or had spotted something worth capturing.
MOUNTAIN GORILLAS LOOK TOUGH - UNTIL THEY ARE NAPPING WITH LITTLE ONES CLIMBING ALL OVER THEM. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
The Photography Gear I Carried Through the Rainforest
Speaking of photography equipment, mine included a Nikon D810 camera body with a Nikkor 24-120 zoom f/4G ED VR AF-S lens. I also brought a Nikon D850 camera body with a Nikkor 300 mm f/4E PF ED AF-S lens, both attached to a BlackRapid Breathe Double Camera Harness with safety straps. I chose this two-camera set up because I did not want to be changing any lens in the rainforest, and the BlackRapid harness permitted me to have both of my hands free when I was not shooting a picture. The harness also keeps the weight of the cameras and lenses off your neck, spreading it comfortably across your shoulders.
Words fail to Describe Your First Mountain Gorilla Sighting
Words fail to describe the awe, excitement, and relief you feel all at once when you finally come upon the Silverbacks. The first day was about a three-hour trek (one way), while the second day was only about an hour and one-half when we came upon the Rushegura family.
BABY MOUNTAIN GORILLAS GATHER AROUND A RESTING FEMALE. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
We were fortunate to find them, including the dominant male, a mother, and siblings going about their life pretty much ignoring our presence. I attribute this incredible opportunity to observe the natural routine of the Silverbacks, to the excellent job of the UWA and guides, ensuring that only a limited number of very small groups of individuals are allowed to trek into the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest at any one time. We did not see any other groups once we started up the mountain each day.
We watched the gorilla family forage for leaves, tubulars, and berries or fruit (gorillas are herbivorous). The younger gorillas appeared to be playing on the vines, running and tumbling with one another. The father typically kept his distance, but a watchful eye on the group. Their actions and movements, for the most part, were gentle, belying their size and powerful upper body.
A DOMINANT MALE KEEPS A WATCHFUL EYE ON HIS FAMILY. IT TAKES 2 TO 3 YEARS OF CAREFUL HABITUATION BEFORE A FAMILY OF MOUNTAIN GORILLAS WILL ALLOW SMALL GROUPS OF TOURISTS TO ENTER THEIR TERRITORY. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
However, a few times while we were watching them, a dominant male would run up and challenge us. We had been forewarned by our guide, but it was still initially quite scary. Mountain gorillas are very fast and literally run up to within a few feet of you, screaming, and then stop, and while standing, face you. We were told to appear non-threatening (do not raise an arm, motion, etc.), and remain still. After a few seemingly very long moments, the gorilla would then simply turn and go back to the group.
Each day, once we found the family, we observed for about an hour.
Queen Elizabeth National Park
ADULT LIONS DO NOT CLIMB TREES - EXCEPT WHEN THEY DO. QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, IS ONE OF TWO PLACES TREE CLIMBING LIONS CAN BE FOUND. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
We then left the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest for the Queen Elizabeth National Park, approximately three-hours drive, over rough roads. We stayed at Ishasha Wilderness Camp. The Queen Elizabeth Park had a mind-boggling cross-section of wildlife. We got to observe tree-climbing lions, elephant herds, hippos, and more.
Next, we left there for Kibale National Park, about a four hour plus drive.
We stayed at the Kyaninga Lodge. This was the base location for our chimpanzee trek.
TAKING A BREAK TO WATCH THE TOURISTS WATCH THE FAMILY. CHIMPANZEE AND HUMANS SHARE 99% OF SAME DNA. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
The chimpanzees are smaller than mountain gorillas. And, they were, in a word, far more frenetic than the gorillas. The interactions were often more chaotic between chimpanzees, turning from sparing to a quick fight. Unlike gorillas, chimpanzees are omnivorous, though we only observed them eating vegetation. The groups were often more substantial in number than the mountain gorilla family we observed.
All too soon, our expedition was over. We returned by land cruiser to Entebbe, a five or so hour drive, to fly back home. Our bodies a little sore but with phenomenal memories and even a picture or two…
You may see more of Jeff’s images at: Daum Photography or Blog or Instagram
Have you trekked with mountain gorillas or chimpanzees? Let us know below!
ALL TOO SOON OUR AFRICAN SAFARI S WERE OVER. WE RETURNED HOME, A LITTLE SORE BUT WITH PHENOMENAL MEMORIES. IMAGE: ©JEFF DAUM, PHD., PPA AND IP
MORE Africa
Beware! The Bold Bad Birds of the African Bush
By Roberta Kravette.
The 7 Best Places to See African Rhinos
By Roberta Kravette
Trekking Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda By Ray Cooper
Zebra At the Edge of Dawn, Falling in Love with Namibia
By Roberta Kravette
