Report From Spain, The Great Raptor Migration, Some Odd Avian Cliff Dwellers, and More
According to BirdLife International, approximately 250,000 raptors, like this Short-toed Snake Eagle, cross the Mediterranean at the Strait of Gibraltar twice a year, the shortest distance between the two continents on a migration journey that will take some as far as Scandinavia and the Arctic. We wanted to be there! Image: Birding the Strait.
Co-Founder, Roberta Kravette
This Spring, our annual adventure with the Grassland Bird Trust took us to southern Spain's Andalusia and Extremadura regions to witness the spring raptor (and others) migration. An unusually cold, wet Iberian spring could not dampen our two small groups’ - or the birds’ - spirits! Spain welcomed us with open arms, fed us fabulously, and shared her beauty from her grasslands and wetlands to the mountains and beyond! And of course, those intrepid birds (!) never failed to amaze!
A Tough Day for Raptors at The Strait of Gibraltar
The view from Mirador del Estrcho Natural Park in Tarifa, Spain to Morocco, Africa - although the closest point between 2 continents it presents some surprising and deadly challenges for migrating raptors. Image: ©Antonio Ciero Reina.
✓ Trip Tips
Where: Spain’s Andalusia + Extremadura Regions
When: March and April
Why: Raptor migration across the Strait of Gibralter + Endangered &
Reintroduced Species
* This trip benefitted the Grassland Bird Trust
Spain's vibrant beach city of Tarifa sits like a pretty punctuation mark at Europe's southernmost tip. This is ground zero for 250,000 raptors crossing the Strait of Gibraltar from their wintering grounds in Africa to the Iberian Peninsula and beyond. The Strait acts like a funnel, concentrating the migrating birds and creating an unequaled opportunity for raptor watching and study. We stood ready on a grassy cliff, binoculars pointed skyward, waiting.
It was cold that day. And wet. Dark clouds scuttled across the gray-blue sky. We braced as relentless winds hit us in mighty blasts, threatening to blow hats (and bodies) into the Strait. Conditions were not in the bird's (or watcher's) favor.
By the time they reach the Strait, migrating birds have already traveled hundreds, or thousands, of miles from wintering points spread across the Sahel. They have faced predators, poachers, diminishing habitat, the desert, and now, an inhospitable 8+ miles (13 km) stretch of open water.
The birds sometimes linger on Morocco's cliffs, hoping for a helpful thermal to ease the way, but on this day, thermals did not come. Still, it was late March, the call to breed must have been strong. Despite the conditions, birds began to appear high over the water. They came singly at first, then in pairs, and a few flocks of dozens or more.
Booted and Short-toed Snake Eagles appeared, and the smaller Black Kites with their distinctive split tails, and huge (mostly young) Griffon Vultures with surprisingly beautiful wings when spread wide, and Marsh Harriers and Lesser Kestrels, smaller than the others but no less regal.
Many of the Birds Clearly Struggled
Wings, designed for soaring and gliding, flapped continuously against the wind. Determined, the birds fought their way across, with achingly slow progress across the miles of open water and wind. We held our breath.
As the first birds finally approached the Spanish shore, we exhaled, unaware that there was one more deadly hurdle: Yellow-legged Gulls.
The aggressive, territorial (and rested) Yellow-legged Gulls have established a breeding colony on the Spanish shore, precisely in the path of the migrating birds. Image: ©Wirestock
The gulls show little empathy toward the exhausted migrants and are especially threatening to the returning, mostly young Griffons, dive-bombing, chasing, and harassing the much larger birds. Some, spent by the crossing, succumb to the attacks and drown. We held our breath. The birds pressed on.
Finally, drained and laboring, the birds arrived over land, and then ….
Magic Happens
Soaring Griffon Vulture. Image ©Martin Pelenek
Warm air rising from the earth lifted the spent raptors. Their exhausted wings stretched wide and became still. In a split second, the once-struggling birds were soaring, effortlessly carried higher and further. Once again, they owned the sky, and one by one, they disappeared beyond the mountains. We all took a breath. My eyes were moist.
It was time for a well-needed (warm) lunch break in a local restaurant with a fabulous view overlooking the Strait.
Watching those raptors (and a few late migrating White Storks) cross the Strait is surprisingly moving. But I'm ahead of the story!
Welcome to Seville!
Our adventure began in Seville, an ancient city rich in Spain's vibrant, layered cultures. Due to different arrival times, our two small groups each had their own overnight experience: one in a 12th-century Moorish palace and the other in an 18th-century convent. Both hotels are within walking distance of Saville's historic center, and we all made good use of that proximity!
Nacho (short for Ignacio) Barrionuevo, our professional birding guide from Birding the Strait, met us in Seville. A native Andalusian and biologist by training, Nacho studied forest bird populations in Sierra de las Nieves National Park, collaborated in various bird surveys, co-authored and reviewed several bird guides, and is a regional eBird reviewer. He is also a patient man with an “Eagle’s eye," an easy smile, and a great sense of humor! We couldn’t wait to get started.
Spain has been on my conservation radar for years. Its participation – and successes – as a partner in Europe's formalized Rewilding initiative (2011) are impressive, with multiple bird species, Iberian Lynx, and even wolves to their credit. I was excited to see for myself. Of course, not everyone agrees with every rewilding initiative, but from day one, people's respect and sense of personal responsibility towards the natural world were evident, especially outside major cities.
The Marbled Duck, (IUNC) Near threatened worldwide, is Critically Endangered in Spain where wetland conservation and a reintroduction project are beginning to make a difference! Image: Thanks to Larry Blau
Evidence of the people’s respect for the wild came early - on a cannery loading dock at the port of Chipiona. Little Swifts are rare in Spain, so when the first few swifts unexpectedly appeared, the workers took action. They quickly outfitted the building, creating safe nesting areas with an overhang and a special door to keep birds out and maintain the cannery's contamination-free status. They even installed educational signs to explain the process to visitors. We stood in their driveway watching hundreds flying in and out of the roof!
Later that morning, in a forested wetland behind a busy construction warehouse, we watched both endangered White-headed ducks (on my must-see list!) and pairs of reintroduced, endangered Marbled Teal living unbothered. Both the cannery and the warehouse had provisions for birders to enter their property and watch "their" birds.
ReIntroduction Miracle! The Northern Bald Ibis
Pair of Northern Bald Ibis nesting at LaBarca de Vejar. Spain. Image: ©Larry Blau
One of the species I was most anxious to see was the Northern Bald Ibis - an odd-looking bird extinct in most of Europe for over 300 years! They are back in Spain centuries after the last one was killed, thanks to the multi-year, multi-national collaboration among governments, conservation organizations, private businesses, and scientists who bred individuals from a small remaining Moroccan colony and, in 2023, rewilded them in their historical grounds in Spain.
For years, the young scientist-raised birds were released and “migrated”, but evidently, there are vital details that only their (usually) feathered elders can impart. Without motherly guidance, the first group all died.
And so, in 2023, they were led "home" by scientists Johannes Fritz, who guided them in his ultralight plane, and Barbara Steininger, their foster "mother," who sat behind him and called, through a bullhorn, across the ~50-day, 1700-mile (2736 km) flight from Germany to Andalusia. It worked! The ibis are back in Spain!
We visited the colony of Northern Bald Ibis, now breeding on a sandstone cliff face on the side of a busy road.
Why nest in that unlikely roadside spot? Only the birds know, but they were happy, and we were delighted. Thankfully, local collaborators have constructed a comfortable protected area across from the nests so the birds aren't disturbed, and the enthusiastic watchers don't become highway roadkill. Perfect!
Southern Spain’s Surprising Countryside
The people of Saucedilla are proud and protective of the generations of Lesser kestrels nesting there since before memory. Other murals include their white storks, Image: ©Roberta Kravette
Spain is full of surprises. Our journey took us through a cork forest, where we learned how trees are dated to protect them against over-harvesting, to Dehesas (protected oak forests with cleared ground), where we saw Andalusia’s famous Iberian pigs feasting on acorns, and to a myriad of small, sleepy villages each with something unusual to discover. In Saucedilla, modern murals depict generations of Lesser Kestrels that have nested in their ancient tower from before time remembered.
And on a cold, damp, bumpy boat ride in Tarife, we caught a fleeting glimpse of Scopoli's Shearwater. Bottlenosed dolphins made an appearance, too – and a small family of Long-finned pilot whales played and splashed and showed off (encouraged by our excited gasps?) and never left the boat's side until we had to turn back.
Inland, the town of Ronda, with its magnificent gorge-spanning bridge and (ancient) white houses precariously balanced on the cliff edge, is breathtaking – even in the rain! And so was our tapas dinner that night! But then, every meal in southern Spain was delicious!
We visited the largest colony of Greater Flamingos on the Iberian peninsula at Fuente De Piedra, they took off in a cloud of pink. Image: ©Larry Blau
In the Fuente De Piedra Lagoon, hundreds of Greater Flamingoes stood in the shallow water rocking on their ankles and toes, like ballet dancers practicing "Tandu," and dined on the tasty morsels turned up from the sandy bottom. Others bent on mating marched across the shallows, males closely following females, legs stepping in synchrony in a ritual that ended with their long, graceful necks twining.
In a nearby lagoon, handsome Black-winged Stilts and Pied Avocets stole the show. Noisy Northern Lapwings called. And in another, more wooded wetland, both Common and Red-crested Pochards went about their business while grebes of three different species ignored them. A couple of pairs of Eurasian Moorhens, males in full territorial battle mode, put on quite a show (ah, Spring!) Spotted Redshanks and Common Greenshanks were better behaved, and another pair of Marbled Teals (rewilding success!) quietly kept to themselves.
A Great Bustard Tries His Luck
On our seventh day, we were up before dawn (firmly gripping a picnic breakfast) and headed to the grasslands and fields outside of Osuna. Spring is when Great Bustard males perform their wonderful strutting dance to impress the ladies; we had high hopes of witnessing a display.
The morning sun rose. We scanned the ground and found … Corn Buntings.
Patience is key for all wildlife viewing (not easy for me before coffee!), and finally, ours paid off. From deep inside the field of tall grass, a bustard suddenly emerged on a strip of low-cut green – directly behind a little female. The Great Bustard male (Europe's heaviest bird) lost no time. It puffed up to twice its size and, flipping its wings almost upside down, showed off its snow-white feathers underneath. It pointed its tail skyward and spread the feathers wide, then fully inflated its neck sack. This was an impressive bird! The male strutted, paraded, and announced its interest with a deep, strange call. We watched and cheered him silently from the road.
Great Bustard (Endangered and decreasing) We were super lucky to see a displaying male at the Cáceres plains, Extremadura - a special protection area for birds.Image: ©Rudmer Zwerver
The female pecked at the ground and ignored him.
The bustard displayed again, head thrown back, feathers, voice, and sack in full avian glory.
The female walked away.
The now half-deflated male followed her. She stopped. He displayed. She left. He deflated.
And so did we.
The disappointed male walked off; his equally disappointed audience unwrapped their breakfast. Such is the life of a Great Bustard.
Next Stop Monfragüe National Park.
Griffon Vultures warming themselves in the early morning sun on the cliffs at Monfragûe National Park. Image: ©Larry Blau
We had already enjoyed astounding numbers of raptors, but the cliffs, valleys, and streams of Monfragüe National Park treated us to even more: European Honey-buzzards, Red Kites, Egyptian and endangered Cinereous Vultures, Golden and Bonelli's Eagles, and the magnificent Spanish Imperial Eagle. There were also hundreds of Griffons!
From our vantage point at the cliff, we had eye-level views of the vultures by the dozens, roosting on the far side, warming away their night chill. Periodically, one or a few Griffons would leap off the rocks to glide along the gorge, so close we could almost touch the great birds.
Spain’s Black Storks are geographically separated from those in Central and Eastern Europe, and the Iberian population is considered threatened, so it was thrilling to see two pairs of Black Storks nesting in Monfragüe NP on rock ledges! The nests are tiny in comparison to the gigantic construction projects of their White Stork cousins. Their distinctive red bills and legs are bright pops of color against the dark stone wall.
We watched for a while, then walked along the gorge, every step revealing breathtaking views of the cliffs and sky, until a movement, just barely discernible against the distant rock face, stopped us. A little Blue Rock thrush clung to something unperceivable on the sheer stone wall and called out, its big, clear voice, belying the bird's small size, echoing over the valley.
There were so many unforgettable moments on this trip: the dozens of Purple Herons nesting in Arrocampo Reservoir's tall grass, the gigantic, impossibly balanced nests of White Storks everywhere - on cottage roofs, telephone poles, and high-tension towers, the brilliant Bee-eaters, and pretty Greenfinches, the warm welcome we had everywhere - but a standout highlight for all of us was afternoon coffee in a village café!
Spanish Ibex and Snowball Fights. It’s Spring at the Bird Hotel in Gredos!
On a trip filled with lovely accommodations, the Hostel Almanzor, in the mountain village of Gredos, was a standout for the warmth and hospitality.
They call it "The Bird Hotel," and indeed it is. Guest rooms are named for a local bird, and their pictures fill every wall.
We spent many hours in their basement blind enjoying close-up views of Eurasian Nuthatches and Short-toed Tree Creepers scampering up and down tree trunks as Tits (Coal, Crested, and Eurasian Blue) and plump little European Robins popped in and out and a Great Spotted Woodpecker in all his glory, hammered for insects at eye level directly in front of us.
Second-generation owners Luisol Alfonso and Loli clearly love their birds and are very involved in local conservation initiatives.
While in Grebos, we ventured higher into the mountains, where we were treated to a herd of Spanish Ibex, grazing, playing, and posturing on the rocks, not 30 feet from where we stood, totally unconcerned by our watching group. Their antics even inspired us to a Spanish-spring-at-elevation snowball fight!
In all, we enjoyed over 170 bird species, including 5+ Endemics and near Endemics, and 15+ species now considered found only in Spain. Along with the Spanish Ibex, some of us were lucky enough to see the Iberian Lynx (!), another rewilding miracle, European rabbits, a European wild cat (Felis silvestris silvestris), a red fox, a least weasel, bottlenosed dolphins, long-finned pilot whales, and a spiny toad.
We feasted on incredible Andalusian cuisine, including those of us who are vegetarians and vegans. (Note to self: Hotel Almonzor's vegan specialties are worth flying across the Atlantic for!) And our "between tours" get-together in Madrid was priceless (did I mention that we stayed in the old city at the oldest continuously operating hotel in Spain?) Every minute was wonderful, but for me, one of the very best moments came at the very end in Madrid. It was the celebration of Alan and Liz’s 55th wedding anniversary.
It was an honor to celebrated Alan and Liz’s 55th wedding anniversary in Madrid on our final night together. What a beautiful way to end our adventure. Image: ©Roberta Kravette
Spain was unforgettable – and we raised $9000.00 for the Grassland Bird Trust's vital work. Hooray!