Arctic Wolves, One Woman’s Experience on Ellesmere Island
The Arctic Wolves on Ellesmere Island have never (or rarely) been hunted and are insatiably curious. Its pack mate was right behind it as it approached. Image: ©Marianne Barnett @barnettmarianne
Roberta Kravette, Co-Founder
✓ Trip Tips
Where: Ellesmere Island
Canadian Arctic
When: April
How: Commercial flights, charter, then snowmobile & sledge.
Must Have: Professional experienced guides.
Who: The very intrepid
Steady gold eyes stared back, straight into her own. Curious eyes. Holding her gaze as it came closer. White on frozen white, the big Arctic wolf was the only thing moving in the vast flat expanse of cold and snow, well, the only moving thing except for Marianne’s rushing adrenaline.
Marianne lay flat on the ice as the wolf approached, aiming and focusing her camera. The wolf closed the distance between them. Then it stopped, dipped into a play bow, and rolled on the snow.
“They’re completely unafraid of humans. It’s the craziest thing you’ve ever seen in your life. Says Marianne, “And obviously, they’re absolutely stunning looking.”
New York to Ellesmere Island, 2800 mi/4600 kg north. Map thanks to M. Barnett
Marianne Barnett and her husband, Michael Hayes, were 500 miles south of the North Pole, living her dream of exploring and photographing the Arctic’s wildlife, especially the wolves.
An Arctic Adventure Begins
Their adventure began about a year and a half ago, prompted by an Instagram image of a white wolf taken by wildlife photographer and artist Amit Eshel. Marianne reached out to him, and Eshel responded with an invitation to visit the Arctic herself. The decision was instantaneous. She would join him when he returned in the spring of 2025. Eshel warned it would be cold and difficult, with the only accommodations being a small tent set up on the snow, but Marianne was already hooked.
Ellesmere Island is not an especially hospitable destination for tourists or life in general. The mean average temperature in March is -27°F. In April, when they would arrive, the temperature usually warms to -16°F, except in the constant wind, which is challenging when standing still, but brutal when hurtling over frozen tundra in a snowmobile, the only practical transportation option. There is neither plumbing nor showers. Meals consist of what you can carry, and they are consumed when the circumstances allow.
Marianne, a petite woman, says one thing she would do differently is carry more pocket food! She looked quite serious when she told me there were some long, hungry days.
The Arctic is Not for the Faint of Heart
It takes a village .. especially in the Arctic. Can you spot the tiny calf protected in the center? Adults weigh as much as 800 lbs/364 kg Image: ©Marianne Barnett @barnettmarianne
Even getting there is brutal, with carefully planned itineraries subject to the whims of the weather. And the incredible Arctic wildlife? Ellesmere, the tenth largest island in the world, is a massive frozen expanse the size of Great Britain. Although species such as Musk ox, Polar Bears, Arctic Hare, Arctic Fox, lemmings, *Perry Caribou, and the elegant Arctic Wolf, plus birds such as Snowy Owls and Rock Ptarmigan are all adapted to life in the extreme north, there are no guarantees any will be visible.
*Note: The Perry Caribou (Rangifer tarandus pearyi), the smallest caribou (Rangifer tarandus) subspecies, was historically reported on Ellesmere Island with 40,000+ counted in 1960. However, the last survey was in 2005/06 and reported a total of only 800 individuals; they are now listed as Endangered. Marianne reported that they saw none at all.
Life is not easy there, even for the acclimated wolves. How difficult? Population density gives us a clue. Yellowstone National Park, at 3,666 sq miles (8980 km2), supports an average of 100-110 wolves, about one wolf for each 35 sq. miles. Ellesmere Island, at 75,747 sq miles (196,235 km2), supports an estimated population of only 200 individuals, or about one wolf for every 379 sq miles.
Almit estimates that only about 40 outsiders have been lucky enough to get to Ellesmere Island, find and photograph them, and Marianne is one of only a very small handful who are women.
Journey to the Top of the World
Marianne and Amit Eshel (wildlife photographer @siberianart ) on board the final flight to Ellesmere Island. The “First Class” section included strapped-in barrels of fuel and a bird's-eye view of the cockpit. Image: Marianne Barnett
The three determined travelers’ journey to Ellesmere Island began with an arrival and an overnight in Ottawa, Canada. From there, they flew to Nunavut, and its capital city, Iqaluit, about 1,305 miles (2,100 km) due north. Iqaluit, “the place of many fish,” was formerly known as Frobisher Bay and is a hub of Inuit culture and business. It is also the site of a landing strip big enough for the space shuttle and used for cold-weather testing of new large aircraft. After a quick refueling stop in Arctic Bay, Marianne, Michael, and Eshel headed north to Resolute, another 760 miles (1220 km). And then…
High winds made taking off with their charter plane or even leaving the hangar impossible. The crew could not hold the small plane steady enough to load the gear and drums of gasoline. On the second day, conditions improved, and they were ready for the last 523 miles (841 km) of their journey to the top of the world.
No amount of discussion or photographs can prepare you for the sights or conditions of the Arctic. The plane landed on Ellesmere Island on a spit of ice. Marianne and Michael stepped out. “It was stunning…white and mountainous. It is absolutely another world.”
Welcome to the Arctic!
Break time! Ground transportation in the Arctic is a mix of modern and traditional with snowmobiles for people and wooden sledges for supplies. Image: ©Marianne Barnett
At the landing strip, their three Inuit guides, Terry Noah, Jason Pijamini, and Nolan Kiguktak, met them with a wooden supply sledge and the snowmobiles that would carry them for the next few weeks. The men loaded the fuel and other supplies onto the sledge. Marianne, Michael, and Amit settled onto the back of the mobiles behind their guides, and off they headed over the ice to their camp and the two waiting tents set up for them.
Michael surveys the “yard” around their home for the next few weeks. Image: ©Marianne Barnette @barnettmarianne
The kerosine heater turned the little tents into an oasis of warmth, ideal for a well-deserved nap before their first golden hour (10 pm) wildlife trek. It was perfect timing for exploring the land of the Midnight Sun. By early April, the sun rises at 4 am and sets into twilight at 10:30 pm – by mid-April, it does not set at all.
And so, on their first photographic foray, they had perfect light to capture the musk ox herd they found with a days-old calf. And the experience provided a lovely memory as they sat for the next few days, huddled together in their tent, fully dressed in parkas, heated vests, and gloves.
Arctic Reality Sets in
Drone view of Base Camp Eureka. At the top of the world, the frozen Arctic landscape stretches forever, but has little room for mistakes. Image: ©Marianne Barnett Note Marianne and Michael’s tent “home.”
Guide Terry Nolan with broken sledge. A sense of humor and resourcefulness are requisites for Arctic survival. Image:©Marianne Barnett
Welcome to the Arctic! A massive windstorm had swept in, plunging temperatures to minus 28°F. Anything on the tent floor froze solid, so all their gear had to be hung. At one point, as the wind blew and the tent shook, Michael, an avid outdoorsman and experienced mountain climber who probably would have been perfectly content to read about this particular adventure, looked at Marianne and asked, “What did you get me into?”
The guides checked in on them daily during the storm, bringing their meals and melted snow for hot drinks. What is on the menu in the Arctic during a windstorm? Musk Ox meat with noodles, peas and carrots, boiled Brussels sprouts and potatoes with bacon or sausage, and once seal blubber with noodles and veggies. “It was delicious,” Marianne recalls. In the Arctic, even your palette needs to be adventurous.
The First Wolf Sighting
Finally, on April 12, the winds began to die down. That night, they headed out for another round of photography, tipped off by a Disney film crew working on a wolf documentary. After about an hour of searching, their guide, Terry, spotted three wolves. They were bedded down together, resting, but didn’t stay that way for long. The pack was soon up, sniffing at the snowmobiles and their boots, and walking among Marianne and the men.
The pack walked all around and between the group, unafraid and unthreatening, sniffing, checking things out, but these are wild wolves, nothing moved except the cameras. Image: ©Marianne Barnett
And then, suddenly, they were gone, trotting single file across the snow.
The group followed at a responsible distance, periodically stopping to photograph the pack. Marianne had brought a drone with her as well as a handheld camera. The wolves quickly found her extra drone glove, accidentally dropped in the snow, and it became a perfect toy. Like big dogs in an icy-white yard, one wolf picked it up and tossed it in the air, starting a vigorous game of keep-away and then tug of war. They chewed on it and chased each other and generally had a great time – until – after about 10 minutes, they dropped the glove and continued off. Wild wolves are not dogs; if Canis lupus arctos is to survive, they must keep their mind on business.
The group had spent over five hours with the wolves. In this special place where no humans had yet created a reason for them to fear and no direct predators other than (very occasionally) Polar Bears, the wolves could be wolves, allowing the group to watch and photograph them as they watched back, played, and lived. All agreed that that night was one they would never forget. The wolves had filled their hearts with joy and their eyes with tears. It was 7 am when they headed back to camp.
Marianne declared it would have been fine if that night had been the last time they saw the wolves. “I saw them, I photographed them, I know I got beautiful images, and I know what a privilege nature has delivered to us, just in one day, to be able to spend five hours or so with these wolves.”
But it was not the last time.
And then they left. While Arctic ( and all wolves) find time for play, survival in the wild Arctic requires keeping your mind on business. Image: ©Marianne Barnett @barnettmarianne
During their time on Ellesmere Island, the group saw eighteen wolves in three different packs, sometimes pristine white and sometimes with faces reddened with the blood of a just-finished meal. (Please see notes on wolf aggression at the end of the article)
Tracking Wolves in The Arctic
Wolf tracks iunder the midnight sun. Understanding tracks is a key survival skill for both humans and wildlife. Terry explained how to “age” a wolf track. Image: ©Marianne Barnett
Although the group periodically saw wolf tracks, some were ignored, and some the guides followed. They all looked the same - or almost the same, to Marianne. Terry explained the key to finding the wolves. It was a Master Class in tracking, although Terry kept some details of the ancient secrets to himself. When he spotted a paw print in the snow, Terry would jump off his snowmobile, lick his finger, and press it into the print, determining how recently the wolf had passed that way, just as his ancestors had done for generations.
But then, sometimes, the wolves came to them. On their final night, the group came across the largest pack they’d yet seen – eight wolves. “The leader of the pack came and approached us, about 100 feet (30.5 m) away.” The big wolf looked them over. “He was not playful – he was all business. His coat was unbelievable, fluffy, big. He was the most beautiful wolf I ever saw.” Marianne told us.
On their final day, they “met” a pack of eight, introduced by this magnificent male, who walked over first to check them out. Image: ©Marianne Barnett @barnettmarianne
She said of the Arctic landscape, “It was not touched by humans. It was so pure and beautiful. I felt so satisfied, the gratification that Mother Nature allowed these wolves to approach us, and they allowed me to look in the eye of one of these wolves, or two, or three of these wolves, and I know there was no fear there.”
Marianne, who traveled with us last winter to photograph Snowy Owls in New York State for Project SNOWstorm, will head to Mongolia on a photography trip next year. “But that’s been done, and not hard, compared to this,” she said. I think she is right. And her mind and heart have already set on a return to the Arctic. “I’m going back,” she said. “I now know all [of] the things I didn’t know before - and I want to experience it again.”
We know you will, and we can’t wait for your images and new insights!
Just back from the Arctic, in time for the New York Marine Rescue Center Spring Gala, Marianne and Michael (avid conservationists) regaled me with stories of their Arctic adventure. Image: ©Roberta Kravette
Epilogue
What is the Difference Between a Gray Wolf and an Arctic Wolf?
Both species are Canis lupus; the Arctic is a subspecies, Canis lupus arctos. Similarities: Both Gray and Arctic Wolves are social animals, forming family packs and hunting together. Both are curious and playful by nature, with even the adults taking part and instigating games.
Differences:
Size: The average Gray Wolf (think Yellowstone wolf) is larger, with males averaging 110 lbs. (50 kg) compared to 100 lbs. (46 kg) for an Arctic wolf male and Gray Wolf females averaging 90 lbs. (41kg) to 80 lbs. (36 kg) for the Arctic Wolf. Arctic Wolves tend to have shorter legs, stockier bodies, and bushier tails, which all help them to endure extreme conditions.
Coloring: The most noticeable difference is the coloring. Arctic Wolves are white year-round with a longer, silkier coat and soft, thick underfur that sheds in warmer weather. Most North American Gray wolves are gray with some black or tawny-brown mixed in, but in Yellowstone, some are black, and a few are white.
Ears and Faces: Arctic Wolves have smaller, rounded ears, and their faces are less pointed than those of other Canis lupus.
Feet: Arctic Wolves also have bigger, padded feet, with fur between the toes, which are helpful in their frozen habitat.
Aggression: Wolves are not dogs; they are not pets and should never be mistaken for them. However, wolves are hunted and vilified in every corner of the planet - except Ellesmere Island - because there are no humans there to do so. On Ellesmere, they show their true character, which is strong, adaptable, curious, and non-aggressive within reason. However, never forget that Ellesmere wolves are wild and top predators; if they feel attacked or threatened in any way, they will protect themselves and their pack. Other than on Ellesmere Island, wolves worldwide, including those in Yellowstone, are wary of people and stay well away. The reasons for this self-protective behavior are underscored by annual hunting, poaching, and trapping kill rates in the United States and worldwide. Wolves are not dogs; they are not pets and should never be mistaken for them.
Read more about wolves in A Field Guide to Wolves and 9+ Great Books on Wolves, 2024 Update